Fendi

From Runway Feed
May 29, 2013 - 2:02pm

A showroom appointment is a particularly satisfying way to see a Fendi collection. At a show, there's no brushing your hand against the sheared and sculpted mink of a bomber jacket. On the runway, a patchworked python T-shirt and skirt would stomp by too quickly for you to truly appreciate the intricacy of their mosaiclike design. The level of craft here was as mind-bending as ever. Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi seemed to have purposely chosen patterns and motifs that would put the ateliers to the test—zebra stripes, zigzags, the signature interlocking Fs. If anything, silhouettes like the aforementioned tee and track pants looked more conventional than you'd find on a Fendi catwalk—but that's not all that surprising given the season in question. Resort is on the shop floor for months before it goes on sale; by nature, it's the hardest-working collection of the year. And on the other hand, the workmanship produced some true moments of wonder. The shift dress beaded in a patchwork of pythons is a true piece of art, its simple shape notwithstanding. And as for the mink capelet sheared in a geometric design that evoked the Art Deco era, it will be a collector's piece a hundred years hence.—Nicole Phelps


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